In his book, A Writer’s Paris, author Eric Maisel writes about the practise of flanerie, the French invention of strolling as an art form. The flaneur, according to Eric, is an observer who wanders the streets of a great city on a mission to notice with childlike enjoyment the smallest events and the obscurest sights he encounters. It is in Paris, says Eric, that the delicious, dreamy strolling of the flaneur can be perfected. So what can a first-time visitor to Paris observe as a flaneur? Here is my list which you can compare with yours:
1. Carousel – it might surprise you but Paris is also a city for children. There are a number of Carousels throughout the city, in almost every park and public square as well as in tourist places like the Louvre, Eiffel Tower, Montmarte, Trocadero, Tuilleries, Luxembourg garden, Champ de Mars, or Jardin des Plantes. It is said that the Carousel is a French invention which started from Louis XIV as an entertainment for his nobles during an equestrian festival. The French Revolution made the carousel accessible to the masses at the end of the 18th century.
2. W. C. which stands for water closet or toilet in England. For some reason, the French have adopted the English initials for water closet and not toilette in public signs. My guess is that the W.C. is a more discreet way of announcing public toilet. Then there is the matter of flushing. If you can’t find the string that needs to be pulled up (and not pushed down) to flush, the flush could be on the floor which means you need to step on it. If it’s a lever type of flush, it works opposite the American way. You need to lift the lever up and not down.
3. Sounds of Paris – if you would like to hear some classic accordion music, head for the Notre Dame across the Seine River. At the bridge, you might chance upon an accordion artist playing classical French songs. Another good place is at the Metro (where you can hear various artists) or at the steps around Sacre Coeur in Montmarte. It is also interesting to note that announcements at the train stations (Gare) are preceded by a short musical sound, before the “Madame et Monsieur,” spiel. Finally, I like the “musical” sound of the police siren or ambulance that you’ll often hear in the city.